By Shaina Mangino
Fusco's via Roma
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We would eventually get to the cannolis—the true quality test of an Italian restaurant.
Growing up in a Jewish-Italian home I am accustomed to food rich in taste and history. And being the food snobs we are, my family and I always have trouble finding the perfect Italian cuisine. But, somehow the humble trattoria on Historic Main Street in the small town of Acworth, Georgia does the trick.
With rustic beams and brick, Fusco’s via Roma rivals any authentic trattoria in Italy. Candlelight, small tables and Tuscan artwork add to the restaurant’s true mom and pop feel. Family portraits and autographed photos from celebrities line the walls leading to the kitchen. The warm, welcoming environment carries through the entire restaurant—a place designed with fun and family in mind. There is even a framed portrait of The Godfather cast in the bathroom.
The trio of my mom, sis and me dare to order their cold antipasto platter. We’ve been disappointed at other establishments and at $9.95 per person this better be good. Would it have the sliced meats and cheeses with marinated vegetables we were so accustomed to or would it be the odd mixed salad we’ve had at other restaurants? Prosciutto, Capicola ham and Genoa salami; mozzarella and provolone cheeses glisten on the plate. Olives, roasted peppers and artichokes round out the sampler. Finally, a proper antipasto platter.
Next comes the ciabatta bread. Crispy and crunchy on the outside, soft and chewy on the inside. Hot and fresh with an elastic nature when breaking it apart. The fruity olive oil, pepper and salty parmigiano reggiano dip delicately complement the rustic bread.
The insalata misto (house salad) is simple and fresh with bitter mixed greens; juicy, vine ripe tomatoes; and crumbly, aromatic parmesan. My sister’s Caesar salad has just the right ingredients: romaine lettuce, garlicy croutons made from day old bread, and shaved parmesan; the perfectly made dressing including anchovies and lemon doesn’t overpower the simple ingredients but could be used a bit more sparingly.
Oh what to have for dinner? The large, diverse menu makes it difficult to choose. Farfalle with prosciutto wrapped scallops in a vodka cream sauce sounds scrumptious; so does the traditional lasagna and the duck breast with a honey glaze served over risotto cooked with Barolo wine.
Ultimately the pizza special with goat cheese, Genoa salami, Kalamata olives and basil wins out. The traditional, thin crust is perfectly cooked and there is a nice contrast between the velvety goat cheese and crispy salami. Fresh, lemony basil perks up the dish while the tang from the salty olives adds tiny bursts of flavor. A slight change in preparation of the salami would have put this pizza over the top. Instead of bite-size pieces, sliced salami would allow for a stronger, spicier flavor.
My mom orders a perfectly tender parmesan crusted pork tenderloin that has the right amount of crunch when I bite into it, and the warm, roasted potatoes are appropriately seasoned. My sister sticks with her usual pasta dish—Penne Rivazza, which is penne pasta tossed in a vodka cream sauce with prosciutto, onions and peas.
About 15 or so minutes after we order, my dad walks in to join us for dinner. It is a nice surprise but we will obviously receive our food before he even orders. Head chef David Fusco is extremely accommodating and puts in a rush order for his Fettuccini Quattro Fromaggi.
Fusco’s al dente pasta is soft with a slight bite in the middle—as it should be. Both the vodka and four cheese cream sauces are silky. While many Italian eateries douse their pasta in a heavy sauce, Fusco’s sauce showcases the pasta, gently wrapping around each piece like a warm jacket.
Two words: chocolate soufflé. Rich, smooth and possibly the best chocolate creation ever invented. Each warm bite melts in my mouth. And the cold vanilla gelato with the hot cake is the most delectable duo. It’s the grown-up version of licking the brownie batter bowl as a kid.
Now the cannolis. Crunchy, flakey, tube-shaped pastry dough: check. Creamy, ricotta cheese with chocolate chips: check, check. Ok, the chocolate chips aren’t traditional but they’re a nice touch for a chocoholic like me. “That’s a good cannoli,” my Italian dad said. “I haven’t had a cannoli as good as this in years.” The owner said they get all their desserts imported from Italy; they even ship in dough and other ingredients from New York.
Fusco’s extensive menu also offers wine pairings, and the restaurant has a full bar with almost any wine, beer or cocktail anyone could imagine.
With comfort foods and warm people, Fusco’s is a small gem in the heart of Acworth. But authenticity comes with a price. Pasta dishes range from $10.25 to $19.95 while meat and fish dishes range anywhere from $15 to $30. The lunch menu, including a variety of panninis, subs and pastas, is slightly cheaper with selections ranging from $7.25 to $17.95.
Fusco’s fresh ingredients are reminiscent of the traditional, Italian Sunday dinner I had as a kid. The restaurant successfully combines fine dining with comfortable surroundings. They embrace their motto: A travola non si invecchia mai (You never age at the dinner table). At Fusco’s, you feel like one of the family.
