
By Adam Lipper
Doc Chey's
Find Me
Peace. Love. Hit-or-miss noodles. That should be Doc Chey’s new slogan.
The award-winning noodle house chain opened in Atlanta in 1997 and in 2004 expanded to Athens, Ga., as well as two other states. It plans to grow to 20 locations over the next two years, and eventually to 300 units.
Over the weekend, I ate at the downtown Athens’ branch on two separate occasions. I did this for two reasons. The first was to gain a greater understanding of Doc Chey’s pan-Asian cuisine. Yet, the truer answer – cover your eyes Doc Chey’s fanatics - was because the first meal was so terrible, so devoid of any flavor, so inept at any similarity to a decent meal that I felt compelled to return. I couldn’t bear to think that this restaurant, just three short years ago, had been a personal favorite of mine.
The atmosphere is truly a treat. With 25-foot high ceilings, large windows to view the hustle and bustle of college students, and red industrial pipes, which give the restaurant a modern feel, you enjoy, or don’t enjoy, your meal in style.
I began with the Fresh Vietnamese Basil Rolls. They’re filled with vermicelli, a thin rice noodle that gives the rolls a spongy texture, and rounded out with shrimp, lettuce, basil and carrots. The rolls are served with hoison sauce for dipping. While they satisfied my taste buds, I was disappointed at their size. Once upon a time in a land far away, I remember them being plentiful and filling. Now they looked anorexic.
Yet, when our entrées arrived, I longed for my emaciated snack. The Spicy Thai Basil noodle bowl tasted like watered-down water. As much as I tried to hide their imperfection by plopping on Sriracha hot sauce, the noodles remained savorless. Except now the noodle bowl tasted like spicy water, which caused me to drink larger quantities of Coke in order to assuage my burning mouth.
My friend’s meal was no consolation. Although the Sesame Chicken stir fry was infinitely more flavorful than my noodle bowl, it contained only a few scraps of chicken and a whole lot of vegetables. When had Doc Chey’s become so frugal?
I took a day off to ponder the stock market plunge of Doc Chey’s quality, and after hours of meditation, I realized Friday night’s meal must have been an anomaly. I returned on Sunday for round two.
Our appetizers came out steaming. The hand-made steamed Shanghai Dumplings were warm and moist. The combination of sticky dough on the outside and tender pork on the inside gave the dumplings a pleasant texture. Despite being a little too doughy, the pickled ginger gave the dumplings a nice zing.
Ten minutes later the real prize came – our entrees. The Pad Thai noodle bowl was everything the Spicy Thai Basil wasn’t. Filled with onions, bok choy, egg and peanuts, Doc Chey’s Phad Thai is an exemplary creation of the popular Thai staple. I left feeling vindicated.
Despite Doc Chey’s semi-demise, it still manages to offer a good meal. Just make sure to consult your nearest fortune cookie before you go. Maybe it’ll give you some insider information on how the food will be tonight.
1 comment:
I have never been completely satisifed with Doc Cheys. Everytime I have ventured in there it's a win-lose situation. I feel like the chefs all try to put there own little spin on a dish and therefore, they NEVER come out the same. But, for some reason, I still go there time after time!
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